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2008/11/24

Madrid February 2008

Having been to Belgium, Berlin, and Paris in winter time, I decided to go somewhere a little warmer. So I set my eyes on Spain, both Madrid and Barcelona. One of the coworkers I went to Berlin with a month before had been to Barcelona. So I thought we go to Madrid this time, and save Barcelona for next time when I know I would be travelling by myself.

Day Zero - Flying KLM from Amsterdam to Madrid

We had a pretty late flight going from Amsterdam to Madrid; we didn't get to Madrid until 11:30pm. Best thing about late flights is that they are usually cheaper; bad thing is that they are so late that most public transportation out of the airport were unavailable by then. So there weren't many options, either shuttle vans or taxi. If it were up to me, I would take the cheaper option, the shuttle van. But by that time, shuttle vans run only once or twice every hour, and my coworker just wanted to get to the hotel as soon as possible, so we took the taxi instead (which was very expensive.) I do think it was a wise decision, we got to our hotel just before midnight.

12:00am Sofitel Madrid Plaza de Espana Sofitel Madrid Plaza de Espana The hotel is not quite in the historic Madrid center, but it is close to one major attraction, the Royal Palace, so it is not completely quiet late at night. It is also close to a Metro station, so it's not a bad location. The room was quite nice, but as usual, other than sleeping, I didn't spend much time in the hotel.

Day One - Museum, Museum, and more Museum:
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, Museo del Prado, Parque del Buen Retiro, Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, Plaza de la Puerta del Sol

And just as usual, I had an ambitious schedule, covering quite a few places. I was a little surprised my coworker didn't freak when I said we were visiting three museums in one day.

10:00am Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum and Prado Museum Museo del Prado - Ticket Office Unlike the museums in Paris, they do not normally allow photography in museums in Spain. So I don't have a lot of pictures for the first day, as we visited 3 museums, all within walking distance, all in one day; Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum in the morning, Prado Museum in the afternoon, and Reina Sofia in the evening. It's probably not how I planned originally, but that's how it turned out.

Normally I would at least take a picture of museum's building, but not for Thyssen-Bornemisza museum; mostly because it is really an art gallery in a plain looking private building, or maybe I still have Paris' Louvre museum in my mind. After spending a couple hours in Thyssen-Bornemisza, we were staving, and we were going to have something to eat at the museum's cafe. But it was jam-packed, and they have some confusing process of taking orders, and servers there weren't too helpful. We ended up walking out, without even paying for the drinks we had. Then we decided to head to the next museum, and just picking up something to eat on the way.

The Prado museum on the other hand is huge with plenty of green space surrounding it. Both museums have great collections of European art, but I enjoyed Prado museum more, mainly because of background information provided by the walking tour in Rick Steves' guidebook. I also had way too much fun of finding specific pieces of art, as the museum have rearranged the rooms quite a bit.

5:00pm Retiro Park Parque del Buen Retiro - Estanque, the artificial lake After visiting two art museums, we could use a little break before going to the third one. Retiro park, Madrid's answer to New York's Central Park, is just a few blocks away from Prado museum. A couple unique things in this park: there is one big artificial lake in the middle, where people can paddle boats. There is also a Crystal Palace that is used for museum exhibition, but at the time we were there, it was completely cleaned out. I didn't see any special events going on in the park, but there were a lot of people with their families and kids. Visiting this park is probably my favorite experience in Madrid.

7:00pm Reina Sofia Art Center Centro de Arte Reina Sofia I actually had doubts if we could really visit three museums in one day; it's just too much art. But it sure helps when our third museum of the day, Reina Sofia museum, does not charge any admission on Saturday evenings. The mood there was a little like the Retiro park, with a lot of people bringing their families, looking at some funky art. So it was actually kinda fun, even though it is a modern art museum. But really, it has a great collection of work by Spain's most famous artists, Picasso and Dali, making this visit of third museum in one day quite enjoyable.

10:30pm Plaza de la Puerta del Sol Plaza de la Puerta del Sol After having a quick dinner at a place near the Reina Sofia museum, we were ready to head back to the hotel. But since we needed to make a transfer at Puerta del Sol, the center of the city, I thought we could make a quick visit there, allowing me to take some pictures at night time. It is literally the heart of the city because roads in Madrid start numbering from this point.

Day Two - Whole lot of walking in Madrid:
Plaza de Espana, Palacio Real, Plaza Mayor, Plaza de la Puerta del Sol, Edificio Metropolis, Parque del Buen Retiro

With some much museums we saw on the first day, we really needed to see more of Madrid. So my plan was to follow two walking tours described in the guidebooks.

11:00am Royal Palace Palacio Real and Plaza de la Armeria The walking tour in my book was going from the Puerta del Sol, the center of Madrid, to the Royal Palace. But since the Royal Palace is very close to our hotel, we did the walking tour in reverse, starting with Plaza de Espana (which is next to hotel) and heading to the Royal Palace first. I wasn't sure if the palace was worth a visit. But since I only had two walking tours in my plan, I thought we could spend some time at one attraction. Like the museums, cameras weren't allowed inside the palace, so I only have pictures in the square and outside of the palace. It might be true that Madrid's best attractions are the art museums, but I think the Royal Palace is a great place to visit. I found the Armory and the Royal Pharmacy particularly interesting.

1:30pm Plaza Mayor Plaza Mayor Leaving the Royal Palace, walking toward the Puerta del Sol, we passed by the Plaza Mayor, a great looking square with tons of tourists. There is also a street with some good restaurants nearby the square. There was one restaurant, Casa Lucio, that we want to try for lunch but it was fully booked; it is supposedly popular with well-known public figures. We ended up trying another restaurant nearby, called Julian de Tolosa. It was not bad, but a little more expensive. This ended up to be our best meal on this trip; most other meals we had were really quick bites.

4:30pm From Puerta del Sol to Edificio Metropolis Edificio Metropolis After our late lunch and much needed rest, we finished our first walking tour when we reached Puerta del Sol (literally means Gate of the Sun.) Even though it was already 4:30pm, Madrid still has another two hours of daylight. The second walking tour we followed was going from Puerta del Sol to the Retiro park. One of the nice buildings we saw on the way was the Edificio Metropolis, with the rounded tower covered by 30000 leaves of 24 Carat gold.

6:00pm Retiro Park Parque del Buen Retiro - Estanque and Alfonso XII After seeing some more interesting buildings, we were back to the Retiro park, with just as many people as the day before, but we didn't stay long this time around. Originally we were going to have something to eat back in the city center. We walked back pretty much the same way, but once we got there we didn't like what we saw, so we walked all the way back to the hotel, and had something to eat at a restaurant in the area. With this dinner, our second day ended a little early, but we were surely exhausted from all the walking. And besides, we had a early flight to catch to get back to work the next morning, always the saddest part of the trip.

MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=126
2008/9/17

Paris January 2008

Early on when I was on assignment in Holland, I remember thinking I wanted to explore places in Europe that is somewhat less popular; I thought the chances of me going to those places on my own are pretty slim. So first place I visited outside of Holland was Brussels and Bruges in Belgium (not exactly unpopular, just relatively so.) And then I joined a couple of people in the Holland office, and went on a road trip to Berlin in Germany (still sort of less popular.)

Naturally the next place I visited was Paris... (I know, it's only the most popular destination in the world.) Ok, it's not exactly my idea. It just happened that a colleague of mine, Aaron, was on assignment in Paris for a couple weeks. So I thought it would be great to meet up with him in Paris.

Technically speaking, I have been to Paris once before, but I don't think it really counted; it was a day-trip from London a couple years ago, and it's not that I had a bad experience, but I was there for so little time, I didn't get to enjoy much of what I saw. So this time around, I was determined to go to most of the same places, in double amount of time (two days!)

Day Zero - Flying from Amsterdam to Paris:
Hotel, Champs-Elysees, Arc de Triomphe, and Eiffel Tower

Instead of taking the train, this time around, I flew from Amsterdam to Paris on an early evening flight. It cost a little more, but it's a bit faster, and I didn't need to watch out for connecting trains.

9:00pm Holiday Inn Paris Bastille Holiday Inn Paris Bastille To get from the airport to my hotel, which is in the city center area, I took the local rail and subway, and it took just under an hour to get there. The transport system is not too complicated, and it has a good website with trip planner. The hotel looks a little old from the outside, looks even older in the lobby, but the room was nicely furnished, so I was more than satisfied. Even though I had an relatively early flight, I wasn't sure if I had the energy to go out after checking in.

11:00pm Champs-Elysees and Arc de Triomphe Arc de Triomphe Feeling that there was no time to slack off, I went out after a short rest in my room. My first stop is the Arc de Triomphe. I remember when I was there last time, it made a great impression on me as I climbed up the stairs from the subway station (mainly because it's so close to the station.) So I thought I knew what I was expecting, except this time is after dark, and my eyes were lighten up when I saw it in a nice golden glow. I must've spent more than half hour, walking around the monument, and taking pictures.

12:00am Eiffel Tower from Trocadero Square View of Eiffel Tower from Trocadero Square
One thing I noticed while circling the Arc de Triomphe was that I could actually see the Eiffel Tower from there; the light show they have on the hour certainly helps getting noticeable from afar. After spending so much time at the Arc de Triomphe, I realized I need to get a good view of the Eiffel Tower for the light show around midnight. (I wasn't sure if there is one at 1am, and I wasn't sure if I want to stay out that late either.) Instead of taking the subway, I decided to walk to the Trocadero Square, thinking I would spend just as much time waiting for subway. The Trocadero Square is probably one of the best place to see the Eiffel Tower from a distance, but really, the tower looks great from any angle (it being symmetrical after all.)

Day One - Meeting Mona Lisa:
Louvre Museum, French Bistro, Arc de Triomphe, and Eiffel Tower

One strange thing my friends and I did last time, was to visit the Louvre Museum without going inside. Well, technically we did go inside, but only for restroom and its bookstore. Because it was a day trip, we didn't really have any time to spend there. I suppose we could just look at Mona Lisa and go, but that seems a little too expensive to do that. So I was quite determined to visit Louvre this time around.

9:30am Louvre Museum Mona Lisa in Salle des Etats They say you could spend days in this museum (which also lead me to think it is dumb to pay full admission to see only the Mona Lisa.) Good thing that I was using a very good guidebook, called Rick Steves' Paris; it highlights the artwork not to be missed there. It also provides very good commentary on each piece of artwork, makes it a bit more interesting for people like me who knows so little about art. Just as the book describes, it might be a little disappointing to see Mona Lisa for the first time; it is smaller than what most people expect, and it is a bit dark. The room where Mona Lisa situated was specifically built for the painting; something about the lighting, I think. It is the room where I spent the most for this visit, not for Mona Lisa, but because I was meeting Aaron there, who just got off the plane that morning. A few of my friends thought it sounds romantic, if only I was meeting a girl. But really, it is the most obvious "landmark" within the museum; they have many signs there, with a picture of the painting, pointing the direction to the room. But by the time Aaron got there, security people started clearing people out of that room, maybe Mona Lisa needed a breather.

12:00pm Lunch at Le Comptoir du Relais Le Comptoir du Relais While I spent more than enough time looking at Mona Lisa, Aaron didn't get the chance to see it, at least not when he just got there. We figured they would re-open the room a bit later, so we went for lunch in the mean time. I don't usually do a lot of research when it comes to eating; I always think it could get expensive in places where tourists are, and even worse, it takes up time. But Aaron, quite a foodie himself, came fully prepared, having a list of places he wanted to try in his two weeks there. The bistro we ended up going have some tables set up outside. I'm not sure if you can call that patio because it is really taking up the sidewalk of the street. The weather was nice, not too cold or windy, so we chose to sit outside, doing some people-watching in the street of Paris, while having some good southwestern French country fare.

2:00pm Back to Louvre Jacques-Louis David - The Coronation of Napoleon (1806-1807) After a nice relaxing lunch break, we went back to Louvre to see some more Mona Lisa and other art works. I am quite impressed by some of those huge paintings, and I like to take pictures of those paintings with people looking at them, to show just how big those paintings are.

4:00pm Back to Arc de Triomphe View from Arc de Triomphe After spending a couple more hours at the Louvre museum, we went to Arc de Triomphe (again.) All I really wanted to do is to get on top of it, to have a view of Paris. It is kinda neat to see all those streets (12 of them) leading to this great monument, but the view was not as great as I have hoped (I blame it on the overcasted sky.)

6:00pm Back to Eiffel Tower Eiffel Tower The previous time I was in Paris, I got to the base of the Eiffel Tower, but I didn't get to go up because I had to catch a train back to London; it was such a unfulfilling experience. So this time I made sure I have plenty of time to visit the tower, it did require quite a bit of time, as the line to go up was long. We stopped at all three levels of the tower, spent lots of time on each level, snapping tons of pictures. I agree with the guidebook that the second level provides a nicer view of the city than the other two levels.

Day Two - More Must See Attractions:
Sainte-Chapelle, Notre-Dame, Orsay Museum

On my last day in Paris, I finally got to visit a couple places I had not gone in my previous time; in fact, I had not even heard of them before (goes to show how unprepared I was for my first visit)

9:00am Sainte-Chapelle Stained Glass in Sainte-Chapelle We went to Sainte-Chapelle first thing in the morning, which is probably not the best time to visit. They say the best time to go is when the sun is bright, with sunlight shining through the stained glasses, lighting up the chapel like a jewel box. But we were there early, and it seemed to be another cloudy day, so there were barely enough light inside the chapel. I guess I would come here again if I have the chance.

10:00am Notre-Dame View of Paris from the top of a Notre-Dame Tower I have been to the Notre-Dame in my previous visit, but like Eiffel Tower, I didn't get to go up on the tower. Normally there would be a long line to go up, but since we were there early in the morning, it didn't take us long to go up. From the top, it has a great view of the Seine river and the city.

12:30pm Orsay Museum Orsay Museum Surprisingly we spent more than two hours in the Notre-Dame area, cutting into our lunch time. We were planning to go to another eatery on Aaron's list, but because I need to leave Paris and head to the airport in the afternoon, we chose to skip lunch and visit one more major attraction, the Orsay Museum. Just like the time at Louvre museum, I followed the tour in the guidebook to see all the major paintings and sculptures. The art works here are definitely modern, as Louvre museum has a more classical collection.

3:30pm Leaving Paris
Having to catch a 6:30pm flight back to Amsterdam, I thought I should have just enough time to get to the airport if I leave Paris before 4pm. Taking the subway again, I got there shortly after 5pm, but there was a problem; the airport got locked down. I never find out what exactly happened, but there were soldiers with heavy weapons guarding the entrances. I didn't worry too much, thinking that even if I missed my flight, the airline should provide some kind of arrangement. After about an hour, they finally re-opened the airport. With everyone and everything rushing inside, I somehow managed to get myself check in at a kiosk fairly quickly. I even somehow got on a priority security check line where I should not have access to (I think the workers there just want to get through this rush of people as fast as possible.) So I ended up being at the gate just when they started boarding. So I had a rather favorable experience at the Paris airport.

MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=125
2008/8/15

Brussels and Bruges December 2007

For my first weekend trip outside of Netherlands, I thought I should go somewhere close, some place where I can take the train to. It turns out the obvious choice is Brussels in Belgium. I like the idea of going there, since it is not anybody's top choice of European destination, but I didn't know much about Brussels. I only know that it is the capital of European Union. Then someone from the office mentioned that Bruges, a city not far from Brussels, is a popular tourist destination as well. So my plan is to stay in Brussels for the weekend, with a day trip to Bruges. Skimming through some of the guidebooks I got from libraries, they seem to suggest spending one day in each city, so I figured I can just follow the books without much planning.

Day Zero - Train to Brussel-Noord:
Hotel, Grand Place and St Catherine Square

Train ride from Amsterdam to Brussels takes about 2 hours, but the fare was a little more than I expected; just a bit cheaper than plane tickets. I caught a train early in the evening, which is probably the busiest, with many workers going back home for the weekend. But by getting there early, I could do some sightseeing that night.

8:30pm Hilton Brussels City Hotel Hilton Brussels City The Hilton hotel I stayed at is walking distance from the train station. It seemed new, and everything looked great. It doesn't have a lounge like most other Hilton hotels, but it has an area that serves pretty good breakfast.

9:30pm Grand Place and St Catherine Square Brussels Town Hall After wasting a bit of time in the hotel, I headed out to probably the biggest attraction of the city at that moment, the Christmas Market. I had never been to any Christmas Market in Europe. I have heard of them, but I wasn't sure what to expect. For Brussels, their Christmas Market spanned from Grand Place to St Catherine Square (or the Fish Market district.) So when I got there, I was overwhelmed, with tons of people, lots of stalls set up selling food and gifts. And the Grand Place is one of most beautiful squares I've seen. The colors of light they use to impose on the buildings was very impressive. Over at the St Catherine Square, there was a skating rink and a Ferris wheel, with just as many people. Even though it was supposed to be just below freezing point, it felt a lot colder. (And I remember reading reports about Toronto having a warm December.) After spending an hour or so, I figured I don't need to see these places in day light; I can't imagine it being more fun than Christmas Market in night time. Before going back to the hotel, I went to look for a restaurant the book recommends. It is an old restaurant that serves traditional Belgian food, although I can't really tell how is it different from other western food, I enjoyed it nonetheless.

Day One - No trains to Bruges:
EU area, Arcade du Cinquantenaire, St Gilles and Ixelles, and Place Royale

On Saturday, bright and early, 8 in the morning, I walked to the train station I got off the night before, planning to take a train to Bruges. What I saw when I got there, was a small crowd of people standing around outside of entrance to the platforms. The person at the ticket office told me the train operators went on strike for the day, so there won't be any service and they hope it'll resume on Sunday(!) So I had no choice but to go back to my room, and to rethink my plan for the day. My plan for Brussels, originally for Sunday, was to sleep in, relax and just chill out in the Grand Place square or somewhere. But since I was up early already, I thought maybe I should just walk around and explore some of the neighborhoods.

10:00am Subway to EU area Berlaymont Building - European Commission HQ I decided to follow a walking tour in the Lonely Planet book. I thought this one is a bit interesting as it includes a little bit of the EU area. But there is really not much to see, other than a few big EU buildings at the beginning of the tour.

11:00am Arcade du Cinquantenaire Arcade du Cinquantenaire Another nice place I walked by on this tour is the Cinquantenaire (Golden Jubilee) Park, and there is the Brussels' version of Triumphal Arch. I definitely enjoyed this part of the tour the most, but a big part of this walking tour is the architecture of the Art Nouveau era. I did not even know the term until I first saw it in the Lonely Planet book, and even now, I do not know how I would describe it. It has an nice unique style on the exterior of the building, mostly with the frames and the actual windows or doors. I saw three of those Art Nouveau buildings in this walk.

12:30pm Walking in St Gilles and Ixelles Maison Camberlaini After finishing the walk close to the EU area, I decided to follow another Lonely Planet walk in some residential neighborhood, with even more Art Nouveau buildings. I did this mainly because I wasn't so interested in the main attractions of the city (although I wish I knew about the Atomium.) In the beginning, I had some difficulties recognizing the buildings with Art Nouveau style. I guess as I followed the second walking tour, it gets a little easier for me to spot them. (I have to say Lonely Planet has listed street name and number for those buildings, with great maps for reference.)

3:30pm Place Royale Place Royale While I was getting to the start of the second walk, I was riding on a streetcar, and we passed by a busy square, with palace and museum surrounding it. Then I realized that is where most other attractions located. So after finishing my second walk (for about two hours), I took a streetcar back to that square area, called Place Royale. There is a few attractions near the square: Palace of Justice, the Royal Palace, and the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. It was getting late, so I didn't get to go inside any of those places, but it is nice to walk around these places, taking some pictures.

6:00pm Back to Grand Place Maison du Roi - providing spotlights to Town Hall After wandering around in Place Royale area for an hour or so, I started heading back to the Christmas Market in the Grand Place. It's not exactly a short walk, and there is not much to see on the way, other than this little landmark called Manneken Pis. Not really sure what was the big deal about this little fountain sculpture, but many tourists seem to enjoy taking pictures with it. While I was at it, I couldn't resist trying the Belgium Waffle. It really can't go wrong, it gets kinda messy eating it. The main reason for going back to Grand Place is to catch a performance they have on Saturdays during the Christmas Market. This time they have Italian Opera from the balcony of the Town Hall. It was actually a little early when I got to Grand Place, so I went to a small street nearby, called Rue des Bouchers, where they have door to door restaurants. I ended up going to a popular restaurant that is famous for their Belgium mussels. It was a quick meal because I ordered the everyday special: mussels, chips, and beer. After dinner, I went back to the square and watched a bit of Italian Opera. It was another freezing cold night, but it didn't affect the outdoor performance by the singers. This was truly an unique European experience.

Day Two - Trains to Bruges back on:
Belfort and the Markt, the Burg, Rozenhoedkaai, and Biking to Damme

Not entirely sure if there is train service, I went to the train station again the next morning, and I was relieved to learn that service was back on that day. Train ride was about one hour from Brussels to Bruges. While on the train, I was reading the travel guides on Bruges, and one of them highly recommends a bike ride to a village called Damme, not far from Bruges. Since the train station is not exactly in the city, I figured I could use a bike to get to city center, and give myself an option of going to Damme.

10:00am Belfort and the Markt View of Bruges from Belfort It took me about 15 to 20 minutes to bike from the train station to city center. There is basically two main squares in city center, one is the Market Square (the Markt), and the other is the Burg. Most of the Markt was occupied by their Christmas Market. But I was really early there, so not much was going on. The biggest landmark there is the bell tower (the Belfort) and I climbed its 366 steps to the top, to have a bird's-eye view of Bruges.

11:00am The Burg Stadhuis (Town Hall) The other square, the Burg, is just a few steps from the Market Square. The most interesting feature of this square is that you can see different style of buildings in architecture history, all in one place.

12:00pm Rozenhoedkaai Rozenhoedkaai, The Quay of the Rosary Rozenhoedkaai, the quay of the Rosary, has to be the most photographed image in Bruges. I was really on my way to a church and a couple of museums, and only steps away from the Burg, I was pleasantly surprised this beautiful scenery. With the help of a guidebook, I was able to visit several other different places in two hours or so. It was rather rush, but I have decided to bike to Damme, and I wanted to do that and come back before sunset (not too comfortable biking between towns in darkness.) Since day was getting short (pretty dark by 5pm), I needed to go in early afternoon.

3:00pm Biking to Damme Just outside of Damme I got a map with bicycle routes to the towns near Bruges, even to the extend of borders with Netherlands. I'm not sure if I had bike in a prettier setting than this country side, with trees lined on both sides of a canal. This is the case where the statement, "it is not the destination, it's the journey," applies. (But then of course I was not riding a Harley.) It's about 7km between Bruges and Damme, but I was taking my time biking (and taking pictures). So it took me almost an hour to get to Damme.

4:00pm Damme View of Damme from Church Tower There is not that much to see in Damme, which is basically a one main street town. One of the more interesting buildings there is this big church with a tower standing next to it. Normally there is no access to the church tower in winter, but they were having some kind of bird-watching event, so I get to go up on the tower, while the people were watching birds with telescopes, I was there to look at the surrounding area with the setting sun.

4:30pm Leaving Damme Damse Vaart canal It was getting a bit later than I wanted, but timing couldn't be any better, to catch last bit of sunset over the canal. There were even some windmills on the way; it feels more like Dutch than Belgian.

5:30pm Back to the Burg and the Markt The Burg By the time I got back to Bruges at 5:30pm, it was pretty much all dark already. I took some more pictures of the same places I've been in the morning, had dinner at a restaurant in the Market Square, took a train back to Brussels, where I spent one more night before going back to Amsterdam the next morning.

MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=124
2008/7/26

Amsterdam November 2007

When I had my first assignment oversea late last year, I flew to Amsterdam a few times, but I didn't see much of Amsterdam. Most of the time, I stayed in another small city, a nice college town, about half hour train ride from Amsterdam airport. I guess early on, I thought I would have plenty of chances to see Amsterdam, but I ended up only spending one weekend walking around in Amsterdam; for most other weekends while I was away from home, I visited other European cities.

Day One:
Stedelijk Museum, Central Library, De Wallen, Zuiderkerk, Waterlooplein and Stopera, Flower Market, Dam Square

12:30pm Restaurant 11 in Stedelijk Museum 11 Restaurant/Bar/Club Unlike most other trips I have, I had a late start this time. I got on the train to Amsterdam a little bit after 10am, and by the time I stepped out of Amsterdam Central train station, it was almost 11am. And because I didn't do enough research ahead of time, I was actually debating with myself where to go while standing outside of the station. So I decided to get lunch in a nearby museum called Stedelijk Museum (mostly modern art). The museum is actually in their temporary location as their actual building is under major renovation. This temporary building used to be a post office built in the 60s, so it fits the modern art quite nicely. There is a restaurant/bar/club establishment called 11, on the top floor (11th floor). When I got out of the elevator, I thought it was a mistake; it looked like a run-down back door entrance to some night club that is closed for day time. I double-checked with my book, and it say they do open for lunch. So I pushed the door open a bit (not so much as a door handle), I peeked inside, and I saw a empty dance floor. Then I thought, ok, if I can't have lunch here, I can at least take some pictures from windows looking out from the top floor. As I walked in, then I realized there was indeed a restaurant at the far end of the dancing hall, with dining tables and a bar. It was pretty quiet with only a handful of people (I guess it was still early for lunch) The food was not bad, and the place is kinda interesting. I guess it is a cool place to be after dark.

1:30pm Central Library Wine Bar in Central Library In a way I wish I didn't find the restaurant, because there is a even better place for lunch next door. It is the brand new Amsterdam Central Library (I actually recognized the word library in Dutch). They have a nice cafeteria (and a wine bar!) on their top floor. They also have balcony there to get a good view of Amsterdam. The library is huge, and their decor is interesting; at first I was wondering why all their books have this white and orange colors on the binding. Looking closer, it was actually the orange and white LEDs that were installed in between the shelves. (LED is definitely the future of interior design.)

2:00pm Oude Kerk (Old Church) and De Waag (Weigh House) in De Wallen De Waag (Weigh House) - where executions were held By the time I left the library, it was almost 2pm, and I still hadn't start any sightseeing. There are a few walking tours described in my travel guides, and one advises that day time is best time to walk in the red light district (safer because less drunk people in daytime.) It also advises not to make eye contact with the people behind the window. So following those advices, it was not a bad visit; it was still quiet, and the area is kinda pretty with the 16th-century canals and houses. There is an old church right in the middle of all this, and apparently it is still in use; but it is bizarrely out of place. Near the end of the walk in this area, there is a building called De Waag, literally Weigh House, where they used to weigh people accused of being a witch. (And they get executed if they failed the weigh test) Some interesting history behind this building.

3:00pm Zuiderkerk (South Church) Government office exhibits city planning Following the walking tour in Lonely Planet, I stopped by this church called South Church in a neighborhood where Rembrandt used to live. While the church is not a major attraction, it is interesting to see how the city is using it as office and for displaying exhibits.

3:30pm Waterlooplein and Stopera Stopera = Opera House + City Hall Not far from the South Church, there is a big building complex called Stopera, literally City Hall and Opera house. It is also next to a popular market square Waterlooplein, where I had my first Dutch Fries with Mayonnaise (It was quite good)

4:00pm Bloemenmarkt (Flower Market) and Kalverstraat (Calves Street) Floating Flower Market The Floating Flower Market sounds more interesting than what it is. While it is true that all stores are "floating" on water, but all of them are securely attached to the canal bank, so you don't really feel floating. In fact, from the front, they look just like any other store on the ground.

5:30pm Dam Square The Dam Square Finishing off the walking tour, I walked by a shopping street called Kalverstraat (Calves Street), and then reached Dam Square, Amsterdam's city center. Understandably it is the main hangout for tourists and locals.

6:00pm Dinner at d'Vijff Vlieghen d'Vijff Vlieghen I made a stop at this restaurant before getting to the Dam. Although it was still early for dinner, I was ready to eat, but the restaurant is not open for dinner yet. They said the night was fully booked, but they said they could accommodate me around 6pm, the time when they start serving dinner. The restaurant is a bit tourisy, and kinda expensive with the chef's menu, but it's all good. Some of the courses were uniquely Dutch (Pancake and Croquette) and its Dutch Interior looks very nice.

Day Two:
Jordaan Neighborhood, Vondelpark, Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank House

A friend of mine mentioned to me that he knows someone running a Chinese church service in Amsterdam, and I did find some info online. So the next day I got up earlier, and made it to the location where I thought the church service would be shortly after 9am. But there was no one there. So I walked around in that area, which is residential in the outskirts of Amsterdam. After waiting for a while, a car pulled up in front of the place. I went up to the woman, who was unloading stuff from her car, and asked her if there is a Chinese church service. She said they no longer meet here, and offered to help me to contact the pastor. Since it would have been too late anyway, I declined and thanked her. So I ended up with a little more time to do some more sightseeing that day.

11:00am Prinsengracht (Prince's Canal) and Westerkerk (West Church) Prinsengracht Following another walk from a travel guide, I walked to a neighborhood called Jordaan. It is a much nicer looking area, more an upper class neighborhood. The weather was beautiful, a good change from the morning and the day before. There are a few nice churches in this area, but the biggest attraction in this area is the Anne Frank Museum. There was a long line up when I got there, so I decided to come back later on that day, hoping for less people by then. Supposed there are some good restaurants for lunch, but they don't open on Sundays. I ended up going to a Dutch Pancake house. Not counting the little one I had the night before, this is the only time I had Dutch Pancake in Netherlands (because it's really quite similar to pizza, except it's in crepe)

1:30pm Vondelpark Vondelpark Continuing on the walk, I passed by some more residential area, and a nice big park called Vondelpark, kinda like Amsterdam's Central Park. It was cold and wet when I was there, but I'm sure it's nice to visit this park in warmer seasons.

2:00pm Van Gogh Museum Posters Counter at Van Gogh Museum Museumplein marks the end of my walk (in this one direction anyway.) It is really a big area with 4 museums. Of the four, one is for modern art (it was under renovation and had relocated at the temporary location where I had lunch the day before); one is the National Museum for more traditional art (also under renovation, but kept one small area to display the best of its collection); the third one is the Diamond Museum; and the last one is the Van Gogh Museum, the only one I visited on this day (although I did have a chance to visit the National Museum a couple months later.) Van Gogh Museum building itself is not too interesting, but the paintings were impressive. They also have tons of information about Van Gogh in audio guide and on display. It's too bad photography is not allowed there.

4:30pm Anne Frank House Long Line-up at Anne Frank Museum After the Van Gogh Museum, I went back pretty much the same way, to visit the Anne Frank Museum. Before going to Amsterdam, I had no idea who Anne Frank Museum. When I told my barber, who is Jewish originally from London, that I was going to Amsterdam, he asked me if I was going to visit Anne Frank Museum. That is the first time I heard of it. Actually, I probably have heard of the book that is a compilation of diaries of this little Jewish girl in WWII. I just didn't know it was taken place in Amsterdam. It was certainly an unique experience, and well worth a visit.

6:00pm Chinatown Nam Kee BBQ After another long day of sightseeing, I wasn't in the mood of spending a couple hours in a typical restaurant. So I tried one of the Chinese restaurants in the Chinatown, which is basically on this one street. It's not big, but I've seen smaller Chinatown, so it's not too bad. I had Wonton and BBQ pork in noodle soup at this Nam Kee BBQ. It was quite good. I actually came back to this same place a couple more times after.

At that time, I thought I would come back to Amsterdam for more weekends; little did I know that I would start a blitz of visiting other cities in Europe.

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2008/7/9

Trip 2007: Munich

Radler and Dark Radler
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The very first thing we decided during planning is destination, which is Prague. Then next thing we figured out is the flights. We figured we can be a little flexible on the dates (that was 4 months ahead) and we knew it should be open-jaw ticket (no point going full cycle back to Prague) and we also know we would be going west (Prague is enough Eastern Europe experience for us the first time.) Soon it became clear that Munich would be a good final destination, about the right distance from Prague with Austria in between. And then we switched it around, landing Munich first and having Prague as final destination, mainly because there is more direct flights from Toronto to Munich (I would hate to miss connecting flights at the beginning of the trip; not so much for coming back home.) Even though we didn't choose to visit Munich until we bought air tickets, I think we enjoyed the time there better than Salzburg or Vienna.

Unlike most other places we visited, we stayed in a hotel that is in a suburb of a big city. The hotel is actually in a business office park, with people driving to work or taking the bus; so it feels very much like North America. To get there from the airport, we figured it would be best to take airport express train to a station close to the hotel, and then take a short taxi ride. It worked out very well, even though there were only a handful of people in the small station we got off. Language wasn't a huge issue, as a lot of people there know some English. Being in a business park, the hotel is designed mainly for business people, but it was quite new and we got a good rate. The only issue is to get to city center; it requires a 20 min bus ride, and then about 10 min subway. All in all, it wasn't too bad, and I would recommend this hotel, but only if they offer this good rate again.

Munich is where we had our only fine dining of the whole trip. It kinda happened by mistake; the book suggests a cafe that is on ground level of a department store, but the department store was actually closed by the time we got there, and only the restaurant upstairs was open. I knew even the cafe was supposed to be a little more expensive, and so when I took a quick glance of the restaurant menu, the price didn't jump out at me like it should. So we proceeded to get our table, and then of course by then it was too late to turn back. We figured we might as well enjoy the meal, got some wine, and ordered full 3 courses dinner. The restaurant was quite nice, this being fine dining after all. The food was good, but we all agreed desserts were outstanding. In the end, after paying the bill, we knew we could not afford another fine dining in this trip. Hence we ended up mostly looking for cheap eateries, just to keep it closer to our budget. Here is the list of places we visited in Munich:
  • Hofbräuhaus am Platzl (Beer Hall, reviewed in all books) - one book says it's the world's most famous beer hall. It is a huge beer hall, with tons of people (both locals and tourists), and a brass band playing music; a real festival atmosphere. Of course beer was good, and they serve some inexpensive food, like pork knuckle.
  • Restaurant Dallmayr (Continental, reviewed in Frommers) - this is where we had the fancy dinner. I think Frommers is mistaken to state two $$ for the price.
  • Sushi & Soul (Japanese, reviewed in Frommers) - cool looking place, and we got a good deal for early-bird dinner. Food was ok, except everything seemed salty, including sushi rice itself. Maybe that's how the locals like it.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=122
  • 2008/7/8

    Trip 2007: Munich - Nymphenburg Park

    Schlosspark Nymphenburg
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    We had an ambitious plan for our first day of the trip, and our execution was pretty good. We arrived Munich airport shortly after 10am as scheduled, found our way to the hotel (which is more or less in between the airport and the city center), checked in, then came back out to visit first attraction of the trip, Nymphenburg Palace and Park. I knew pretty much nothing about this place, except that it is one of the top attractions in Munich. Getting there was a bit tricky, as we had to switch from Metro to streetcar, but their transit system has an excellent website, allowing us to print out detailed instructions, so we got there no problem. (I wish we had done the same for all places in Munich, especially for the art museums, where we lost quite a bit of time looking for them.)

    On this trip, we were planning to visit a few attractions just like this: a palace with a big park or garden. So Nymphenburg became my reference for comparison, and I think Nymphenburg is as good as the other ones in most area. The interior of the palace was a little old, and the exhibits were not that memorable (although carriages and snow sleighs for the royals were kinda neat.) The palace does have a nice big Grand Hall in the center. On the other hand, we enjoyed the park much more. The park is huge, probably bigger than any other park we saw. The parks in Austria probably have better gardening than Nymphenburg park, but we got better weather here, and there are lakes and canals with leaves turning. Nice thing about this park is that there are numerous pavilions we can visit (so we forced ourselves to walk most of the park.) Of the ones we visited, I like the Amalienburg (with a octagonal hall of mirrors, rococo style) and the Pagodenburg (Semi-Chinese style pagoda with two levels only.) We stayed there until sunset, around the closing time. But this is only half of our ambitious plan for the first day; we still had a museum and a historical pub to visit that day.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=121
    2008/7/7

    Trip 2007: Munich - Deutsches Museum

    Aviation
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    None of us would have imagined spending more than two hours in a science museum, but that's what we did on our second day of the trip; we were in the Deutsches Museum for six hours, and if it wasn't closing for the day, we would probably have stayed longer. It is supposed to be the world's largest museum of technology and engineering. Our plan was to spend two hours there, and our strategy was to go to the top floor and work our way down; we would skim through all floors (there are 6 floors) and we would stop only when we see something interesting. I think it would take two hours just to walk thru all exhibits non-stop (there were more than 40 exhibits) I think we tried to finish our visit before we have lunch, but by 2:30pm, we were only half way thru. So we gave up rest of our schedule (to visit two more museums that day), and decided to stay there for the rest of the day.

    Here are some of the exhibits that we spent a little more time than others: Astronomy, Computer Science (I wonder why), Agricultural and Food Technology (I really wonder why), Photo and Film (very nice exhibit), Aviation (most time here), Marine Transportation, Bridges (I never thought building bridges could be that interesting), and Mining.

    Everything there is massive, both size of the collection and the artifact itself. It is the opposite of our Ontario Science Centre, which is very much hands-on and interactive, but not so much exhibits (maybe that's why it's not called a museum?) It might be the reason why we were so impressed by the Deutsches Museum.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=120
    2008/7/6

    Trip 2007: Munich - Art Museums

    Neue Pinakothek
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    In our original plan, we were going to visit one science museum and two art museums in one day. The plan would work if none of us have the slightest interest in art and science. It turns out that we had some interest in science, so we had to visit the art museums the next day. Actually we had visited an art museum on our first day, the Bavarian National Museum. It is actually more than an art museum; it's more like a museum of the Bavarian culture and history. It is only when I planned for this trip, that I heard of the Bavaria nation, and that Munich was the capital (it is still the capital of the state within Germany.) If there is one thing the Bavarian National Museum stands out, it is its huge collection of miniatures that depict the Nativity scene (it certainly shows Bavaria's deep Christianity roots.) We got to the museum one hour before it closes (happened often in our trip), so we had to rush to go through the rooms, but we still managed to take some pictures.

    The two art museums that we visited on another day were the Alte Pinakothek and the Neue Pinakothek (the Old and the New Art Gallery.) Based on the time we spent there, I'd say we have more interests in the New Art Gallery (2.5 hours) than the Old Art Gallery (1.5 hour); the New Art Gallery truly has some pretty neat stuff. Actually that 1.5 hour in Alte Pinakothek was spent by me alone, as Vincent and Naomi took off to see some more of the city. I thought I shouldn't skip the Alte Pinakothek, being one of the most famous and important art museums. And I know I want to see some famous artwork by Rembrandt and Rubens (little did I know that I would get plenty of opportunities to visit other museums in Europe.) It is also where I saw famous Spanish painter El Greco's work for the first time (extraordinary and definitely unique.) I don't blame Vincent and Naomi not being so interested, all these paintings are common in one thing after all; they are all biblically themed.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=119

    Trip 2007: Munich - Around the Old Town

    Michaelskirche on Neuhauser Strasse
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    During our lunch on the third day, our last day in Munich, Vincent suggested him and Naomi to do some more city tour, as I continue visiting the art museum we were in. (So it took him 3 days to notice this light bulb...) Actually Vincent understands that I was determined to visit this art museum, but he also felt he had not spend enough time to get to know Munich, even though we had been crossing the city a few times, going to different attractions.

    In the original plan, I did have reserve some more time for walking around the old town on the third day. But since we did not went to all the museums we planned for the second day, I thought I would rather to visit the museums than touring the city. So we agreed to meet up in the Old Town around 6pm. So for that afternoon, Vincent and Naomi spent some time visiting the Englischer Garten (or the English Garden.) It's a nice big park with some interesting landmarks (one of the more famous is the Chinese Tower.) They also visited a couple churches, and climbed the St. Peter's Tower. (They got some nice shots of Old Town Munich from above.)

    As for me, it turned out that I needed only an hour and half to finish my visit of the art museum. So I did a little bit of city walk myself. I walked by a major shopping area, pedestrian-only street called Neuhauser Strasse. Walking toward the Hofgarten (Court Garden), I passed by a few big churches and squares, so I think I did get a good sense of Munich. I do think that we could use another day in Munich. In the end, I guess Munich has exceeded our expectation.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=118
    2008/7/5

    Trip 2007: Germany - Bavarian King's Castles

    View of Neuschwanstein Castle from Mary's Bridge
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    One of our most anticipated attractions on this trip, our plan was to visit the castles on the 4th day, first thing after we departed Munich. That day when we checked out of our Munich hotel, we got ourselves a rental car from Avis. Both the hotel and car rental place are in the suburb of Munich, but not exactly close to each other. Because it was Sunday, not many places open, and even the one we visited opens for a few hours in the morning only. (Actually most people were there to return cars.) When we got the car, I was a little disappointed. First it was a Kia (I was hoping for a German car), and second it was automatic transmission. They probably figure they are doing us Canadians favor, giving us automatics. Oh well, at least the car was quite new.

    It was about two hours driving from our hotel to get to the castle area. We actually stopped by the town Fussen nearby, to check in hotel and left our luggages there. We were right on schedule, which is good because we have booked tickets in advanced, with time of visited arranged. In fact because I put in buffer time just in case, we were actually early, so we had a bit of time to walk around before we visited the castles.

    Weather weren't promising, from the time we left Munich till we got to the castles, there were drizzle on and off. Then when it was time to visit the first castle, the older Schloss Hohenschwangau, sky cleared up a little, but it was still hard to see the other castle (which is the bigger draw.) The tour for the old castle was quite good, the guide gave us plenty of stories and background about the castles and the royal family. He also mentioned a couple times that the King who built the other castle monitor the progress of it being built from this old castle, but at that time, we could barely see it with some clouds and fog surrounding it. But as we finished our tour and stepped out of the old castle, sun actually broke in.

    By the time it was for us to go up the other castle, Schloss Neuschwanstein, weather was perfect. This castle looks like the castle of the Disney logo; it should be noted that this castle came before the existence of Disney. A shuttle ride took us to a spot just a little above the castle. From there, we walked a little bit and reached a bridge that gives the amazing view of the castle. In my mind, we didn't need to see the inside after viewing the castle from the bridge; not that the rooms inside weren't any good, actually the throne room was quite nice. Instead of taking another shuttle back down to the parking lot, we walked down and saw some more nice view of the castle, with trees and leaves turning as well. I'm sure all of us thought that was a very good day.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=117
    2008/7/3

    Trip 2007: Fussen in Germany and Innsbruck in Austria

    Innsbruck
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    The last place we stayed in Germany is in the town of Fussen, just across from the famous Bavarian castles we just visited. In fact, we checked into our hotel in Fuseen before we went to see the castles. Fussen is also just 5km from the Austrian border, so it allows us to have a quick visit in Innsbruck, our first stop in Austria, the next morning.

    Our hotel in general was pretty good, although some of the furnishings was a little old, but at least bathroom was newly installed. The restaurant where they serve breakfast was quite nice as well, but for dinner we went to a pretty good restaurant nearby, as recommended by a book. After dinner we did a little bit of walking around the hotel area. And that's all we saw in Fussen.

    Then the next day we started driving early to go to Innsbruck, a major Austrian city that is famous for winter sports (two Olympic Winter Games were held here.) The Old Town there is nice, and its major attraction is the Golden Roof. But we spent most of our time in another major attraction, Swarovski Crystal Gallery, Swarovski's biggest store in the world. Both me and Vincent understand it is important for Naomi to get the gifts for her family, so we kept quiet most of the time. We ended up spending more than an hour there. It was only later that Naomi realized we had a pretty tight schedule for the rest of the day.

    So shortly after our visit to the Swarovski store, we left Innsbruck. We had plans to make some more stops along the way, including our hotel check-in at Zell am See. But we decided to skip all that and headed straight to Grossglockner High Alpine Road, probably our most interesting attraction on that day. And of course we ran into some traffic jam for no good reasons. Being the driver, I tried not to lose my cool, but it got Vincent a bit miffed (first time seeing him like that.) I guess he was quite looking forward to the Alpine road. We did manage to get there to have a good Alpine road trip.

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    Trip 2007: Austria - Grossglockner High Alpine Road

    Grossglockner High Alpine Road
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    This is one of the first attractions Vincent suggested when we were planning for the road trip. Usually for road trips, I think i usually look for attractions that take just a little bit of time, especially when we have all our luggages in the car. It turned out, for this trip, all our stops were quite lengthy. In fact, this attraction, the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, was a 4 hours driving detour. I actually have friends who had been there, but it was a disappointment for them because it was foggy the whole time, so my expectation was not high. Also, I had some unpleasant experiences before getting on the road; twice I was shortchanged, once at the gas station, and another at the entrance of the road. I got the gas station person to correct it, but not the one at road entrance (because we were in a rush as it was getting late, and we only realized after we drove a little bit.) Not a good impression of Austrian people (or were they East European immigrants?) I want to think it is their math skills...

    As I was saying, it was getting late, but weather was great, and I wanted to drive as fast as possible, without skipping good view points. There were numerous checkpoints, and we stopped for a few of them. It was all very nice, and surprisingly, it reminded me of driving south shore of Maui, but instead of water ocean on the other side of the road, it was the big mountain range. If there is a destination of this drive, it would be the visitor center located close to Grossglockner, the highest mountain in Austria. But by the time we got there, it was pretty dark. It wasn't that late, but the visitor center is surrounded by mountains, so there would be sunlight only when it's earlier in the day.

    Our hotel for that night is in Zell am See, not far from the entrance of this alpine road. But it would be a harder drive, going back the same way, in the dark. So we chose to finish the drive, and got out at the other end of the road. Then we speeded through the highway around the mountains. By the time we reached our hotel, it was well past 8pm.

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    Trip 2007: Austria - Zell am See, Gorge, Ice Cave

    Liechtenstein Gorge
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    On our way to the city of Salzburg, we made a stop at a town called Zell am See, and stayed there overnight. It is not far from Salzburg, in fact it is in the same state, also called Salzburg. This is basically ski country in winter time, hiking for the summer. Our hotel (more like a road-side motel) seems to be a good place for skiers, but this time around the hotel is filled with people doing road trips. The town itself was pretty quietly, with only a handful of people. Maybe it has more to do with the fact that we got there pretty late. Most places were closed already, so we were lucky to find a restaurant open late even in quiet season. Food was alright with good price, but they spoke little English; so we kinda feel like eating where locals eat.

    There are a few interesting attractions between here and the city of Salzburg. One of the more well-known attractions is the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, which we visited just before we checked into our hotel in Zell am See. Then on the next day, we visited two more attractions before getting to Salzburg. In terms of timing, I think we followed our plan quite good; one attraction in the morning, another one in early afternoon, and then reaching Salzburg in early evening. Both attractions require some hiking (nothing Naomi could not handle.) First attraction we went to is called Liechtenstein Gorge, where they built walkpaths in a narrow canyon in mountains. There is a river running through it as we walked up, and eventually when we reached the end, there was a nice big waterfall.

    Then in the afternoon, we went to an attraction called Eisriesenwelt, literally means World of the Ice Giants. It is supposed to be the largest ice cave in the world, and with some lighting inside, it is quite nice to look at. However, it is a long way from the parking lot to the actual cave; there was 40 minutes of walking with a cable car ride in the mix. I actually thought the hike going up was not bad, and we got some really nice weather. We just had to rush a little bit when we got close to the cave because the ice cave tour was about to begin. The tour wasn't terribly exciting, we just get to walk a bit in this huge cave, and to see some interesting ice formation with pretty lights. Like most other places, we weren't allowed to take pictures, but I doubt we can have any nice pictures in such dark cave.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=114
    2008/6/29

    Trip 2007: Salzburg

    St. Blaise's Church
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    Not being a fan of Mozart or Sound of Music, four nights in Salzburg seems a bit long. Actually, there were three full days, and we crossed the border for Germany on one of the days. Still, we seemed to have more time than we needed. There was only a few attractions that we really looked forward to see; there were actually more interesting attractions one hour driving away from the city (which is why Salzburg is a good starting point for travelling.) It might be a bit tourisy, but to be fair, Salzburg, especially the Old Town, is quite pretty, and I bet it's even more enjoyable in dry warm weather.

    Our apartment in Salzburg is not too bad. The main reason we chose this, other than reasonable price, was that it could house 5 people (originally we had more people to travel together) The apartment was indeed big enough for more people, but there was only one bathroom (and its water pressure is a little low, plus draining is a little slow,) so I was glad we had only 3 people. The owner was quite nice, meeting us in person at the apartment, and showing us around in the neighborhood.

    As for eating, most places were fine, with a couple restaurants more stand out. It probably has more to do with the fact that we wanted to spend less, after we had our fancy dinner in Munich. Here is the list of places we visited:
  • Carpe Diem Finest Fingerfood (International, reviewed in Frommers) - It might be finest, definitely expensive for something that can't really fill up the stomach (we thought this could be our dinner.) The fingerfood there is mainly the "cones", so instead of ice cream, it is appetizer type of food (like chicken wing and catfish) Everything is nice, so the main problem is the portion and relatively the price.
  • Ganshof Gasthaus (recommended by the apartment owner) - This is one of the few restaurants that is close to our apartment. It serves mainly local people; we can tell because most people there do not speak English. There was one serving us spoke a little English. It was really a pub, and the menu was small, but food was decent, and price was good as well. It was just a little smoky, but it's nice to have some local experience.
  • Mensa (University Canteen, reviewed in Lonely Planet) - Food is cheap and decent. It's mostly students there, and it gets a little smoky as well. University is in Old Town, so this place is in great location.
  • Wasserfall Restaurant (Italian, reviewed in Frommers) - I like this restaurant the best in Salzburg. It's not expensive, and food was great. The place itself is nice and comfortable. This place is in a busy business area, just across from the Old Town.
  • Zum Mohren (Austrian, reviewed in Frommers and Rick Steves) - It's weird that we ended up ordering mostly Italian stuff at this place; maybe the Austrian dishes were more expensive. The decor inside is a little offbeat with some strange paintings and sculpture; it's interesting nonetheless. It's located in the middle of Old Town.
  • Pizzeria Il Sole (Italian, reviewed in Frommers) - Near the elevator to the Museum of Modernity, this place is slightly under the street level. Both the food and price are fine, it's just the portion a little small.

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  • 2008/6/25

    Trip 2007: Berchtesgaden National Park

    Town of Ramsau
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    About half hour driving from Salzburg, crossing the border to Germany, there is a big national park called Berchtesgaden. It is a popular place to visit for people based in Salzburg. The best thing about staying in Salzburg for 4 nights is that we can have a pretty flexible schedule. When we got to Salzburg, we found out the nice weather we have been enjoying was going to last for one more day in the coming week, so we went to the national park first. It was absolutely the right decision, we couldn't ask for a better day to visit Berchtesgaden; it's too bad we didn't get that nice weather for the rest of our trip.

    Before the trip, I got whole bunch of books from public library, and I brought a few with me for the trip. One of them is about road trips in Germany, and it suggests a driving route in this Berchtesgaden area. The book is pretty good, except for the beginning part of the route, where it took us off the highway and leading us to some local traffic for some small town. So even though we started pretty early (shortly after 9am), we probably lost about an hour, trying to get back to the main route. By the time we got to our first stop, a lake called Hintersee, it was 11am.

    Hintersee gave us a good introduction of what this area is like; a decent size lake with high mountains surrounding it. There is a couple of hotels or inns right by the lake, but in general it is not tourisy. It feels more like cottage country, with a quiet and calming feel to it. There are some hiking trails around the lake that leads to a town nearby, but of course we were only driving by this area.

    The town nearby is called Ramsau. Apparently Vincent was quite looking forward to visit this town. He said he saw some nice pictures before the trip, and he knew what picture-taking spot to look for. I myself usually look at only a few pictures while preparing for a trip; maybe I want to save my first experience unspoiled. So my first experience of Ramsau: there is white mountains, clear water running with a bridge over it, a nice small church, bright blue sky, and green grass with some leaves turning colors. It looks better than my words can describe.

    One of the Berchtesgaden's biggest attraction is the lake Konigssee, literally it means King's Lake (but they say it is not entirely correct.) There are two things most people do in Konigssee: one is to hike 20 minutes to a spot called Malerwinkel, literally Painters Corner; the other is to take a boat ride to a church called St. Bartholoma, which is on the shore, halfway down of this long lake. The view of the lake from the Painters Corner is great, even better with the leaves turning. The St. Bartholoma church is quite unique; I've never seen any church like that.

    By the time we finished with Konigssee, it was well past 3pm. There was really enough time for one more stop, and it should've been Eagle's Nest (another popular attraction in the area), but I thought we could squeeze in a quick detour, driving on a scenic route on Rossfeld road. But in the end, we missed the last bus going up to Eagle's Nest. In fact, we thought we just made it, but we got on the wrong bus; we managed to get off the bus before it took us further down on the hill. Even though we didn't get to see the Eagle's Nest, I think we all felt it was a very good day of sightseeing.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=111
    2008/6/24

    Trip 2007: Salzburg - Cathedral and Mozart Districts

    Horse Pond and Tunnel to exit Old Town
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    As popular as Salzburg is as a tourist destination, I'm not sure if there was one attraction that I would call a must-see. Maybe the must-see thing there is the town itself, more precisely the Old Town, where Mozart used to roam around, or where they shot some of the scenes in the movie Sound of Music (although I think more scenes were shot outside of the city.) In a map provided by local tourism agency, they define a few different districts in the city. We spent most of our time in two of them: Cathedral District, and the Mozart District.

    There are quite a few churches or cathedrals in the Old Town. We walked by most of them, went inside for a few of them; there is one called St. Peter's, its cemetery reminded me some scenes from Sound of Music.

    Most memorable of them all is probably the Salzburg Cathedral. We got there late in the day, like just one hour before they close. So we were taking our time touring the place, then one clergy came to us and told us we should go to one particular room for a special exhibition they were having. He ended up being a little bit like our tour guide, guiding us different rooms, speeding up our tour a little bit. I think he wanted to secure the rooms for closing at the same time. At one point, he asked us where are we from. We told him we are from Toronto, and he just nodded. Wanted to keep conversation going, I added that we were all originally from Hong Kong, then he seemed to be more interested, and started telling us that he has been to Hong Kong, and how much he enjoyed the time there. I think from that point on, whenever someone ask us, we told them we are from Hong Kong; Toronto is not as good a conversation starter. Near the end of our tour of the place, the clergy bid us goodbye with some final words: "Remember, the world is good when the people is good." I don't know what Vincent and Naomi think of that, but to me, he seems to be saying, "and since we are all sinners, this world is in trouble". That is one gentle wise man.

    While none of us are big fan of classical music, we managed to visit only one Mozart related attraction, the Mozart's Birthplace Museum. Although they call this the Mozart district, there are some other things to see (and there are not that many Mozart related things anyway.) We wanted to see the Residenz State Rooms, but they had it closed for some private functions; we did go one floor above where they have the Residenz gallery (not that interesting.)

    As much as I like Salzburg (especially walking around in night time) I really wanted to enjoy the Old Town more. I think if the weather was better and warmer, we would spend time sitting in some outdoor cafe and relaxed a little. But it's been cold and wet most of the time, we forced ourselves to look for places to visit. We visited this brand new museum called Salzburg Museum. While everything there was new and nicely presented, it is more about the history of local people (other than Mozart), and it was just not that interesting to us. Maybe it's more interesting to local people.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=110

    Trip 2007: Salzburg - Fortress, Garden, and Above the City

    View of Salzburg from Watchtower
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    The Salzburg City Center is actually surrounded by hills, with a river running through it. One of the hills is supposed to be in a good defensive position, which is why they have this big Fortress sitting on top of it. As Salzburg literally means Salt Castle, salt (which was valuable back then) is what they stored in the fortress. Now it is a popular tourist attraction, with its entrance in the Old Town, offering Cable Car ride up to the fortress. Some of the things they display in the Fortress is kinda interesting; there is a small museum of Marionette (like puppets), and some exhibition on the history of Salzburg and the Fortress. But I was more interested in seeing the view of the city from here, even though it's been raining on and off the whole time.

    To get a good view of the Fortress, on the other hand, we went to the the Mirabell Garden in city center. The garden is part of the Mirabell Palace, now a city administration office and library. The garden with fountains and the view of the fortress is a major attraction in itself. We didn't get to see the inside of the palace though.

    Other than the hill where the Fortress is situated, there were other hills that offer good view of the city. One is just across the river from the Old Town, where we climbed some stairs to get to a church. There is a watchtower and some opening with a good view of the river and the Old Town. Another good viewpoint is where the Museum of Modernity located, on the north end of the Old Town. They run an elevator service from street level up to the museum. The view is not as good as the other two, but the museum is not bad. It happens that they have some kind of Chinese exhibition; their theme name is Mahjong, but we didn't see any Mahjong related.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=109

    2008/6/23

    Trip 2007: Salzburg - Hellbrunn and Hangar

    VIP Lounge at the top?
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    Just outside of the city of Salzburg, there were a couple of places we visited. One is the Hellbrunn Palace, which is a popular attraction for the Sound of Music fans. All three of us watched the movie for the first time not long before the trip, but I think we only like the movie ok, so we weren't too excited about visiting Hellbrunn Palace. The most interesting thing there is the "trick" fountains (all operated by water pressure and mechanics), but I think the tour guide was having too much fun, trying to get us tourists wet by those hidden fountains. The palace and the garden is quite nice, but probably not as nice as the other ones we saw in the trip.

    The other place just outside of Salzburg we visited is not really an attraction, but a fancy restaurant that I tried to persuade others to try. Even though we didn't have meals there, we went there anyway because the building where that restaurant located looks interesting. The building is called Hangar-7, owned by the company that makes Red Bull. It was actually a real hangar for the Salzburg airport, but they turned this into a museum/restaurant/bar entertainment complex. It looks pretty cool. And for that fancy restaurant, they flew in some celebrity chef every month. Too bad that for the month we were there, we weren't too interested in the chef's menu.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=108

    Trip 2007: Austria - Hallstatt

    Square in Hallstatt
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    After spending a few days in Salzburg, we continued our road trip, and headed to Hallstatt, one of the most picturesque town in Austria. Chances are, you have seen a picture of it before knowing the name of the place (which is exactly the case for Naomi; she has a jigsaw puzzle of Hallstatt before learning about it for the trip.) It is not far from Salzburg, and it is kinda on the way to Vienna; we just had to drive thru some mountain roads.

    We should have known what mountain roads could mean; even lower temperature, icy, and snow. Well, there were some snow showers even in Salzburg, but by the time we get to the mountain area, we saw more snow on the ground already. We planned a stop before Hallstatt, a lake called Gosausee (near the town Gosau) We almost didn't make it there, because the road was steep and slippery. In fact we had already gave up and headed back (our tires were not snow tires, and it was slipping bad) Then we saw a snowplow truck passing by. With the road cleared a bit, we tried again, and we managed to get thru that steep stretch, and got to the lake. We saw the lake alright, but it was pretty much white out, nothing like we saw in pictures before the trip. Then when we headed back down that same road, it was even more dangerous. I was not thrill driving there.

    With that little adventure, we didn't get to Hallstatt until early afternoon (I was hoping to get there a little earlier.) But then with less than ideal weather, we didn't need a lot of time to see Hallstatt. There were snow everywhere, it was definitely not as picturesque, and we could hardly see the mountains. We walked around a little, it has a nice little square in the middle, and we found the spot where everyone takes pictures of the town. But it was very quiet, with only a handful of people around.

    Our apartment in Hallstatt was not bad, but it was almost like a homestay because our hosts live just upstairs. The apartment is really split up into two rooms; one bedroom and one living room with a hallway divided up in between. The toilet is outside of the two rooms, and the shower stall is in the bedroom (I think it used to be a closet.) Even though the setup is a little strange, we really have no complains; everything is clean and works properly. And it has a great view of the town and the lake. We wish we could stay there a little longer than just one night; we could only afford one afternoon to relax in Hallstatt, even in bad weather.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=107

    2008/6/22

    Trip 2007: Austria - Mauthausen and Danube

    Melk Abbey
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    When we were planning for the trip, knowing that we would be going to Prague, I suggested going to Auschwitz in Poland, to visit the concentration camp there. But we didn't feel comfortable enough to visit two countries in East Europe, so we dropped the idea. But we managed to include a visit to a concentration camp when we were planning for Austria.

    It was not exactly fun to visit the Mauthausen Concentration Camp; it was the first time visiting such a place for all of us. I think we all understand we need to be respectful, not to be loud, and definitely not to be cheery or crack a smile. It was certainly an unique and learning experience. We ended up spending more than two hours there; we could've spent more time there, but we got a schedule to keep, other places to visit, before getting to Vienna.

    Speaking of schedule, it was extremely tight. Originally we planned to leave Hallstatt (where we spent the night before) early in the morning, to go to the Mauthausen Concentration Camp, and then to finish our visit there around 11am. Well, we didn't leave as early as we planned, and didn't get to Mauthausen until 11am. I figured we'll know what to skip when the time comes.

    I actually thought we would skipped the next stop, the Melk Abbey. My understanding was that Melk Abbey is a great looking building overseeing the Danube river, and so I was hoping to take pictures from the outside. By the time we got there, it was raining pretty hard, so I didn't think I want to stick around. But Vincent thought we could have lunch in the town, and see what to do after. So we went to a decent place for lunch (Tom's Restaurant listed in Lonely Planet.) By the time we finished lunch, it was almost 4pm, just barely made it to the last admission to Melk Abbey. Was I glad we didn't skip this place, its Marble Hall, the Library, and the Baroque abbey itself, all are very impressive. And of course the weather became a little better by then, so I got a few shots of the building as well.

    After Mauthausen and Melk, I felt we've had a good day of travelling already, so I wasn't so concerned about rest of the day, as long as we get to Vienna in the end. Well, I was actually quite looking forward to this next stop even before the trip; it was to visit a winery in Austria's Wachau wine region. We had contacted one winery in advanced, but by the time we got there (which was quite late), there were no one answering the door. So the only thing left to do is to sneak into their vineyard, which is just behind their houses, hoping to get caught. So after taking a few pictures there, we continued our road trip. The plan was to have dinner at the next stop, a town called Krems. There is a nice little town center area where the shops and restaurants are. We walked around a little, but we decided it is better to get to Vienna as soon as possible; it would be difficult to sort things out late at night if there was any complications with our Vienna apartment. The apartment was fine, although it took us a bit of time to find it; a correct address would have certainly helped.

    MSN Sync from http://www.lightrelay.com/?p=106